Wupatki National Monument

Located just north of Sunset Crater we find Wupatki National Monument (NM), which protects some spectacular early farming villages or pueblos.

These areas were occupied and farmed for about 400 years prior to the volcanic eruption at Sunset Crater (about 1,000 years ago) made the area uninhabitable. Then, after a few generations, the residents eventually returned to grow crops for another 100 years or so.

Campsite

We found a wonderful boondocking site in the forest between Sunset Crater and Wupatki National Monuments. There’s very little boondocking allowed in this area, so we got very lucky to see the previous occupant leaving this spot just as we arrived.

It’s very quiet, surrounded by fields of wildflowers and shadowed by volcanic craters. Bliss!

There is a campground adjacent to Sunset Crater, which was the backup plan; but, boondocking is always preferred when we can find it.

Wupatki and Sunset Crater Loop Road

From camp, we decide to take the loop road from Sunset Crater to Wupatki, passing through the Strawberry Crater Wilderness area. It’s very peaceful, with incredible views of craters, lava fields, and the Painted Desert in the distance.

Cinder Hills Overlook

A short distance after leaving Sunset Crater we find the turnoff to the Cinder Hills Overlook. From here we can see the scenic drive going northwest toward Strawberry Crater Wilderness.

Painted Desert Vista

Next, we go up a small loop offshoot, which takes us to a picnic area with views over the Strawberry Crater Wilderness. We’re surrounded by craters, wildflowers and the sounds of animals rustling through the scrub.

Wukoki Pueblo

Shortly after passing the Wupatki NM entrance, we decide to take the right turn just before reaching the visitors center, so we can explore the Wukoki Pueblo.

Trailhead

As we reach the trailhead, we park and look around before heading down the short trail to the pueblo.

Pueblo

This amazing feat of masonry uses the landscapes natural rock formations to create a three story high building, that from a distance can resemble a small castle.

It’s hard to believe these walls have withstood over 900 years of torturous desert weather along with the heavy snows of the Flagstaff area.

Wupatki Pueblo

Next, we head to the park’s main attraction, located just behind the visitors center. The Wupatki Pueblo is situated along the major trading routes connecting communities to the northeast and south. Built and occupied during the 1100’s, it grew to several thousand residents and became a landmark gathering place and ceremonial center. It centers in both Hopi and Zuni oral histories, which say it was one of the original melting pots for people of diverse origins.

Village

A short walk along a paved trail leads us to an overlook point showcasing the pueblo complex and the surrounding area.

Pueblo

This multi-level, high-rise contained about 100 rooms. Like the previous pueblo, this one was also built using the natural landscape and materials; and has mostly withstood weathering and vandalism for over 700 years.

Based on what was found here, it appears that when the clans departed, they just sealed the doorways, leaving many items behind. Almost as if they intended to return one day.

Community Room

Built in the style of an amphitheater, this community room had many uses.

Ballcourt

According to the information board…. “Archaeologists believe a modified ball game, passed north from Mayan regions to the Hohokam in Southern Arizona, was played within these masonry walls.”

Blowhole

Measured at more than 30 mph (48 kph), the air at this blowhole will flow either in or out depending on pressure & temperatures underground vs above ground. It’s actually one of two connected holes, 24 miles apart. The native tribes have many names for these spots; but they all boil down to… where the earth breathes.

Nalakihu & Citadel Pueblo Trail

Out next stop heading west through the park is the Nalakihu & Citadel Pueblo trail.

Nalakihu Pueblo

We can easily see the Nalakihu Pueblo from the parking lot and, as we get closer, it’s easy to see inside.

Citadel Pueblo

Next, we head up the hill to the larger Citadel Pueblo standing sentinel over the surrounding areas. Built in the mid-1100’s, this two-story pueblo’s walls were built to conform to the curve of the hill and contain black basalt. This material is difficult to build with, so it was not used very often, making this pueblo unique.

This building has gone through quite a journey. In 1933, archaeologists used a lot of guesswork to reconstruct it, doing quite a bit of damage to the original structure in the process. Then in 1953, the process was reversed, returning the structure back to it’s natural excavated state.

Citadel Sinkhole

Seen from Citadel Pueblo, this large depression is still forming. The massive bedrock beneath it is gradually collapsing downward, as the nearby faults are slowly pulling apart.

Coming down the trail, we get a picture of the rock wren that’s been keeping an eye on us as we explore these ancient homes.

Lomaki Pueblo Trailhead

Heading further down the road toward the west entrance, we reach our last stop for the day… the Lomaki and Box Canyon Pueblos Trail. This is a short (less than a mile) trail with interpretive signs all along it, describing the cultural and geological history of the area. The views are spectacular, and the blooming wildflowers provide a very colorful landscape.

There’s a lot of construction at the trailhead and once we begin our walk, we realize that they’re adding defined trails that will make these areas ADA accessible.

Box Canyon Pueblo

As we reach Box Canyon, we find Pueblo’s on both sides with a view of the Lomaki Pueblo in the distance. There are short offshoots to both canyon rims, so we can easily get close to these ancient structures. It’s really interesting to stand where the natives lived; and see where and how they not only survived, but thrived.

Lomaki Pueblo

Our final stop in the park is the Lomaki Pueblo. This pueblo is uniquely situated on the rim of the canyon just above a prehistoric check dam that frequently contained run-off water. If no water was available here, the residents had to walk 10 miles to the Little Colorado River drainage to fill their pottery jars. Wow! Learning things like this reminds us to appreciate modern indoor plumbing.

Wildflowers

We never expected to see so many wildflowers blooming here in September; but they were everywhere.

Next Stop… Walnut Canyon National Monument