Great Basin National Park

Great Basin National Park is one of the least visited national parks in the United States. Which is really a shame because it has caves, volcanoes, glaciers, alpine lakes, incredible dark skies, and is home to one of the oldest living things on earth… a grove of Great Basin Bristlecone pines, that contain some trees that are close to 5,000 years old.

We arranged to have a family celebration here in early September; which coincided with the annual astronomy festival.

Lehman Cave Tour

Our first adventure in the park is a guided tour through Lehman Caves. Lehman is an old cave (one stalagmite has been dated as 2.2 million year old), offers some unique formations, and is an absolute pleasure to see.

Comparing it to our other cave tours this summer… the guide was not good (failed LA actor who didn’t have a clue what he was talking about); and we found the cave itself to have too many lights. It feels a little like going through an exhibit in a museum, verses experiencing one of earth’s natural, underground wonders. That being said, we’re glad we did it, and would recommend it to others.

Path

Stalactites & Stalagmites

Mineral formations within the cave… Stalactites – hang from the top, and Stalagmites – grow up from the bottom.

Columns

Columns are formed when stalactites and stalagmites meet.

Water

Water is a natural occurrence inside caves; but we were surprised by the size of this pool.

Draperies

A common cave formation resembling curtains.

Cave Shields

Cave shields look like huge flat discs. This is our first time seeing them, and that’s because this formation is unusual to most caves. The fact that hundreds can be found here, is one of the things that makes Lehman Caves so unique. Scientists believe that there are more shield formations in Lehman Caves than any other cave in the world.

Looking at the information available from the park service, we learn that in addition to being unusual, the creation process of these formations is still puzzling scientists. The theory is that cave shields form as Calcite-rich water (under hydrostatic pressure) moves through the joints and cracks within the bedrock. The ones we see below have been in the cave so long that draperies have formed below the shields, turning them into what’s known as “Parachute shields.”

Cave Bacon

A form of flowstone, cave bacon forms when water runs down an overhanging wall over and over. The mineral buildups produce a long, thin, rippled sheet, and the variations in chemicals during this process, create colored stripes; which is what makes it look just like bacon.

Cave Writing

When Absalom Lehman opened the caves to visitors roughly 130 years, it was considered an honor to leave your mark within the cave. So unfortunately, signatures can be found in almost every room and tunnel. Today, we obviously realize this is very destructive to the caves, and leaving anything behind is strictly forbidden.

Mountain View Nature Trail

After leaving the cave, we head up the short Mountain View Nature Trail. The trail takes us past the original, natural cave entrance; which was used from 1885 to 1940. Then we head up into the hills to see a view of the mountains, past pinyon pines, and finally by Rhodes Cabin, before arriving back to the visitors center.

Rhodes Cabin is one of several structures built in 1928 to accommodate tourists visiting the caves. It has been restored and moved next to the visitors center to house exhibits.

Annual Astronomy Festival

Held annually during the new moon each September, this festival provides events for all ages and interest levels. Our party took advantage of the telescope viewing, photo workshops, constellation talks, Caltech on Tap, and the observatory tour.

Observatory Tour

Limited to 15 people per tour, this is one of the rare events we had to schedule in advance. After meeting our guide outside the visitors center, she leads us through the park employee residential area until we arrive at the observatory.

We’re treated to a tour of the control room prior to being led back outside, where we’re lined up in pairs before ascending the stairs. After climbing through the very small entrance door, we join our guide inside the extremely small space around the telescope. It’s here she answers any and all questions for each pair of guests. Once all guests have had their turn, she opens the clamshell top allowing us to see what it looks like when it’s in use. Which looks really funny with her head just poking out the top.

After the tour, we spend the afternoon catching up in the shade around camp.

Alpine Lakes / Bristlecone Pine / Glacier Trail

Trail

This morning, a few of us head up the mountain to the Summit Trailhead before doing a planned hike lower on the mountain. Our goal is to check out the parking situation for the Alpine Lakes-Bristlecone Pine-Glacier trail we intend to do very early Sunday morning. We’ve been warned, that due the construction project to expand parking at the Bristlecone-Alpine Lakes Trailhead, parking is currently limited to 13 spots for all the trails at the top of the mountain and to get there early if you want to hike.

Much to our surprise, there’s one spot left in the lot. It’s really small; but after a short discussion, we decide that if we can manage to squeeze our way into it, we’ll go ahead and do the trail today. Where there’s a will, there’s a way. So, after some pretty tight maneuvering, we’re parked and on our way down the trail. And what a trail it is!!!

The trail is very diverse with what seems to be a new wonder around every corner. As we traverse the 7.4 miles and 1,364 feet of elevation, we weave through many different types of forest, along idyllic mountain meadows, and up through volcanic lava rocks.

And that’s just the trail leading us to incredible views, alpine lakes, historic Bristlecone pines, and glaciers.

Alpine Lakes

The first lake we reach is Stella Lake; and since there’s no wind, the water is like glass, reflecting the colorful scene behind. A short while later we reach Teresa Lake, where we first encounter the natural spring feeding it.

Bristlecone Pine Grove

The Bristlecone Pine Interpretive Trail, an offshoot of the main trail, is home to trees that are nearly 5,000 years old; which makes them some of the oldest living things in the world. Their needles can also live up to 40 years. Significantly longer than the two or three years of most other pines. It’s here we learn that Bristlecone pines only grow about an inch every hundred years. They also die very slowly, with parts of the tree remaining alive thanks to only one or two viable roots.

We see many examples of trees that are only partially alive as we weave our way through these ancients. We also run across remnants that have withstood decay for thousands of years; and completely dead trees that are still standing, with bark that appears to have been polished by the elements.

Glacier

Once we reach the top of the main trail, we find an information board showcasing both the ice and rock glaciers. It shows where each of them start and how they’re formed. We can also see some smoke from the nearby forest fire has settled in the cirque (bowl left by the glacier), making everything look a little hazy.

Baker, NV

Whispering Elms RV Park & Campground

This facility is a little rough, as it’s been more of a hobby for the owner instead of a business. But, he’s now taking it seriously, and it’s currently undergoing renovations. It offers a few hotel rooms, camping, RV spots, showers, laundry facilities, and a bar.

The photo of our camper below is courtesy of a family member who took advantage of the astrophotography and editing workshops offered during the festival this weekend. Thanks for the cool photo!

Sunrise

While some members of our party were up late learning about astrophotography, others of us got up early to catch the sunrise. The smoke in the air made this one spectacularly red.

Mural

Just a block away from the campground, we find a mural; and realize this is an extension of the Ely mural tour we did last week.

It’s located next to Sugar, Salt, & Malt where we had an incredible dinner with the whole family. Incidentally, this is also the only sit down restaurant in town. The only other options for food are a mexican food truck; and the cafe at the visitors center, which is only open for breakfast and lunch.

Baker Creek Loop

This morning we head out to explore an area south of the visitors center via the Baker Creek Loop Trail.

Trail

This 3.3 mile, 850 foot elevation gain trail takes us through a few different types of forests, past beautiful mountain meadows, and provides incredible views of several mountain peaks.

Small falls along Baker Creek

Almost the entire walk is along either Baker Creek or the South Fork of Baker Creek and provides views of many small falls along the way.

Wildlife

As an added bonus for reaching the trailhead early this morning, we encounter this wonderful fellow just finishing his breakfast.

And we find the wild turkey at the large meadow, before turning down the South Fork section of the trial. We spend a little time watching him, as we chat with a few hikers we meet going the other way.

Upper Pictograph Cave

After the hike, we stop at the Upper Pictograph Cave on the way back to camp. Unfortunately, it’s currently closed. But, we do find faint pictographs visible just outside the cave.

Grey Cliffs of Pole Canyon

Across from the cave, we can see the Grey Cliffs of Pole Canyon. There’s a campground here and a few trails; but we’re hungry. So, it’s time to head back to camp for lunch; and an afternoon with the rest of the family.

Osceola Ditch Interpretive Trail

On our final day in the park, almost everyone heads up the mountain to do a section of the Oceaola Ditch Interpretive Trail. Starting the trail along the scenic drive, we walk ~1.4 miles down to Mill Creek. The creek is barely running right now; but it appears it may have overrun it’s banks recently. There is evidence of debris, and the information board that is supposed to be there is completely gone.

On the short walk down, we had to pick our way across a few rock slides; which was not easy. So, we decide to try an alternate route on way back. But it’s so overgrown, we had to turn around and go back to the main trail. Too bad! However, given the massive construction projects going on in the park, and the evidence of torrential rains we see, it’s not surprising that some of the lesser used trails have been left to run wild this year.

Scenic Drive

After the hike, we continue up the scenic drive to experience the two overlooks.

Wheeler Peak Overlook

Our first stop is the Wheeler Peak Overlook, at just under 10k feet. Which, as the name suggests, offers a view of Wheeler Peak. For those who didn’t do the hike earlier in the week, it also provides a great view of the glaciers.

As we’re standing on the viewing platform, a couple of very playful chipmunks make an appearance in the woods just below. They provide an abundance of entertainment as we take turns getting the pictures we want.

Mather Overlook

Our next, and last stop, as we head back down the mountain, is Mather Overlook at just over 9k feet. It’s here we learn that this beautiful landscape is courtesy of the glacier. The massive amount of ice carved it’s way down this valley, moving huge amounts of rock and debris, leaving it behind as it melted.

It was so nice having everyone together for a few days. Thanks for joining us at this incredible park to celebrate life, while remembering those we’ve lost.

Next Stop… Zion Canyon National Park (NP)