Grand Portage NM & Isle Royale NP

Grand Portage Casino

We make “camp” for this leg of our trip in the back corner of the parking lot at the Grand Portage Casino. How did we end up in a parking lot?

We were able to pick up a cancellation on the ferry to Isle Royale for Aug 5th. These ferry’s are so limited they are always booked solid and tickets sell out 6 months in advance. So, we took what we could get, even though we had no place to stay. We’re resourceful and knew we’d figure something out.

After investigating the area, the closest place to stay (within the US) is the Grand Portage Casino RV Park and we’ve been trying for over a month (they don’t have a online reservations or email) to get a hold of the RV Park at the casino, only to receive a message that their voicemail box is full.

Trying one final time, before extending our stay in Grand Marais, we finally connect only to learn that they’ve already overbooked the RV park on the dates we need. But, they can offer us a spot in the Casino parking lot for free. We weren’t thrilled, but it’s free and the only place we’ve found within 30 miles of our 8am ferry to Isle Royale, so we accept and hope for the best.

Grand Portage Village

Our journey begins with a bike ride from our spot in the Grand Portage Casino parking lot around the Bay to Hat Point Marina and the Isle Royale Ferry dock. In addition to giving us peace of mind for our ferry ride, this excursion allows us to absorb the local ambiance and take in the landscape as we slowly ride through Grand Portage Village.

As we’re cruising along we see what appears to be a very old church on the hill, so we go investigate. Per the historical marker outside the building, we’ve found the Holy Rosary Church; which is the oldest existing Log Church in Minnesota. Built in 1865, the original tamarack logs and stained glass windows were covered with siding and modern windows in the 1940’s. You can still see the beautiful stained glass behind the modern windows.

Grand Portage National Monument

Next we head back to the National Monument to explore the Heritage Center. As we enter the Center we discover that unlike the usual park visitor centers this is a joint venture between the National Park Service and the local Ojibwe tribe. The volunteer behind the desk recommends we watch the 20 minute movie he’s just starting and tour the Center afterwards. We decide to take his advice and head into the theater to see the film that he says will give meaning to everything we’ll see in and around the Center.

The movie is told from a Native American point of view and:

• explains the significance of the Portage
• provides a history of the Depot from it’s beginning to the present day
• details how the immigrants and local tribes worked together to make this trade depot a success
• and tells of the impact (both positive and negative) it had on the tribe when it was a hive of activity, and after trading was moved north, once the boarder between Canada and the US was finalized

We find it very impressive and were glad we arrived in time to see it. It’s actually one of the few we’ve watched from beginning to end.

Trade Depot

As we enter the Trade Depot site, we meet a young Native American woman from the local tribe who takes us around a few of the structures that are representations of what would have made up the Ojibwe village outside the Depot. She explains what they are made of, how they are constructed, and how they are used. We are so focused on her that we neglect to take pictures.

Next, we head into the Depot itself where there are costumed volunteers wandering around talking about what life is like within the depot.

Mount Rose Trail

After thoroughly exploring the depot, we head up the Mount Rose Overlook trail…

…to see the village, Depot, Bay, and Portage from above.

Mount Rose Overlook

We’ve had a wonderful day exploring on our bikes, experiencing history, and doing a little hiking; but it’s getting late and we’re hungry. So we decide to head back to the camper, clean up, and patronize the Casino buffet for dinner. The food is excellent and the price is so reasonable we actually feel a little guilty since we’re staying here for free.

Isle Royale National Park

After a surprisingly good night’s sleep we wake early and are very happy to see blue skies outside the window. We quickly check the forecast and are thrilled to see that it’s going to be a beautiful day for our trip to Isle Royale; which is our final stop in Michigan.

Isle Royale Ferry

As we arrive at the ferry dock, the lake is dead calm, and there are many other excited travelers awaiting the days adventure. The boat isn’t there yet; which is creating anxiety in some of our traveling companions; but we overhear one of the crew say it’ll be here shortly. True to their word, the boat docks a little while later and we board as our names are called.

Sitting outside facing the stern, we are able to see the Casino Marina & RV Park across the bay as we leave Grand Portage.

Washington Harbor

Everyone is relaxing and chatting during the crossing until we begin to see some of Isle Royale’s outer islands. The anticipation builds as people begin to either fidget or get up to take pictures of the scenery as we cruise past. As we enter the Washington Harbor inlet, we begin to see varied shoreline and pass other travelers leaving the island. We know we’re getting close and everyone on board begins collecting their belongings, eager to begin exploring the least visited national park in the lower 48.

Just after we dock, all visitors are required to meet with the park Rangers to go through an orientation as well as show proof of payment for the National Park Fees. We’re split into two groups (campers and day trippers) to listen to our respective orientations. We stop to listen to ours in the perfect spot and are second in line to show our park pass. Which makes us the first ones up our chosen trail and gives us the best chance of seeing wildlife.

Grace Creek Trail

The trail is still covered in dew and crisscrossed with spiderwebs as we progress along the path and begin to wind our way up the hill toward the overlook. We’re trying to be very quiet, hoping to see moose; which we’ve been told is rare unless you’re camping in the remote parts of the island.

Grace Creek Overlook

As we reach the top of the trail and find the overlook, we are greeted with a view all the way from Grace Creek to Grace Harbor. This is one of the best places to see moose, so we carefully look at every bend in the river as well as locate the watering hole in the clearing. There’s no moose for us today, just a few birds signing in the tree behind us; but the view is still worth the climb.

Descending from the overlook, we come across a few of the crew collecting thistle berries to make jam. We’ve been hearing about these berries all the way through Michigan; but haven’t had the opportunity to try them. So, they graciously point us to a bunch of ripe ones and encourage us to pick a few to try. They have the look and color of a small raspberry; but with a slightly bitter taste. We thank the crew and leave them to their berry picking as we continue down the trail.

It’s still early as we near the bottom. So, we decide to take the long way back to Windigo via the Nature Trail. The forest is lush and dense with only the sounds of a light wind whistling through the trees, a small stream gurgling along the trail, and animals rustling through the undergrowth.

Windigo

After hiking 5 miles, we reach Windigo and take a seat on the porch outside the camp store to eat a late lunch. Our bodies begin to cool and relax as we absorb the sunshine, soft breeze, and gently lapping water.

Next we head over to the Visitor Center; which is small; but has a surprising number exhibits detailing the island, lighthouse, and the wildlife to be found here. One of the largest displays is the original Fresnel lens from the Rock of Ages lighthouse; which was brought here in 1985 after being replaced by a ceramic lamp. The highlight of our visit to the Center is speaking with a few of the Park Rangers living here for the season and learning what life is like on the island, how they get their supplies, etc.

Leaving Windigo

It’s time to head to the ferry and begin our journey back to the mainland. As we near the docks we see many of our fellow passengers as well as some campers catching the ferry home. Everyone is smiling and happily discussing everything they’ve seen while touring the island.

The ride home shows us some more incredible sights and the captain takes us near the iconic Rock of Ages lighthouse.

Built in 1908 the Rock of Ages Lighthouse is one of the tallest and most powerful beacons on the Great Lakes. It was manned April to November each year until 1977 by a team of four to five lighthouse keepers who lived within the ten levels of the tower, five miles from the nearest shore. The local lore says that that the lighthouse keepers who insulted a superior or got into trouble were sent here as punishment. The lighthouse is still an important Coast Guard beacon, and is currently undergoing a much needed renovation.

The way into Grand Portage Bay

The ride back to the mainland is very peaceful and we spend the majority of it speaking with one of the crew. When they’re not pointing out interesting sights, they’re entertaining us with some of their more memorable stories of ferry crossings and island experiences.

Unfortunately, our summer tour is now at an end; but what an incredible summer it’s been.

Let’s see what we can find to explore as we head west toward home.