Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is made up 21 islands plus a stretch of shoreline at the northern tip of Wisconsin.

There’s very few campgrounds in this area that take reservations and we weren’t able to find one. However, there are a lot of first come, first served campsites. So, we arrive early on a Monday to improve our chances as well as having our 1st through 8th choices planned out. Our plan works perfectly and we find a great spot in our first choice.

Big Rock Campground

Big Rock is a county run, primitive (no hookups) campground on the Sioux River just west of Washburn, WI. There are only 13 small sites and only a couple are right on the river. We are lucky enough to get one, and the sound of the river outside our window is very peaceful.

Ashland

Because we found our campsite on the first try, we set up, have lunch and then head down to Ashland. Our first stop is the Great Lakes Visitor Center to see the exhibits, get our National Park passport stamp, get maps, and obtain local insight for the area. Then we head into Ashland to sit, relax, and enjoy the bay from Bayview Park.

Chequamegon Bay

Next we head into the Ashland Historic District for a walk around town to see the historical buildings and the murals the city is known for. The murals are spaced throughout the town; but of course are not on any of the historic buildings.

Historic Buildings

Mural Walk

There are over 20 murals on the Ashland Mural Walk, and they’re all incredibly unique.

The town takes so much pride in this district that even the trash/recycle bins and benches are works of art.

After a wonderful nights sleep we head up the coast to explore before our scheduled 2:30pm Apostle Island Grand Tour.

Bayview Park

Our first stop is Bayview Park to see Long and Madeline Islands as well as view the historic displays for:

• Town of Bayview – established in 1913
• The Chicago St. Paul, Minneapolis, and Omaha Railway
• Houghton Village Railroad Depot (only remaining Depot on the Bayfield Peninsula)
• Prentice Brownstone Co. quarry operation

Bayfield

Next we head to the historic district of Bayfield, WI to walk around town before boarding the boat for our “Grand Tour” cruise of the Apostle Islands.

We leisurely walk around town and have picnic lunch before heading to the dock to catch our boat.

Additional Grand Tour Cruise

We’re scheduled for the 2:30 cruise; which is one they added onto their usual schedule due to high demand. It’s the same cruise; but on a smaller boat vs the larger catamaran.

Engine Trouble

As we approach the boat we notice unusual activity aboard. A few minutes later, the Captain comes off to tell us that they’re having engine trouble and the cruise has been canceled.

We know there is one last cruise this afternoon, so all it takes a look at other and he says… “Go!” I take off at a quick walk to get to the ticket office and try to get us switched to the last cruise of the day. I reach it before anyone else, and am able to get us two of the handful of remaining seats on the 4:30 cruise. Yeah! Now what are we going to do for the next two hours?

We have a seat in the gazebo, caddy corner to the ticket office, to look at the map. We see a trail to an old bridge and a few museums that we didn’t visit earlier. So, off we go to investigate.

Iron Bridge and Nature Trail

The Iron Bridge Trail is at the southern edge of the 250+ acre Big Ravine Preserve and goes by the “dry dam” and mouth of the 900ft sluiceway running under Washington Ave. It was built by the US Army Corps of Engineers to prevent a repeat of the 1942 flood; which left 100 people homeless and caused over $500k in damage to the town.

The iron bridge, listed on the National Register of Historic Places: was built in 1912, closed to vehicles in 1967, and then pedestrians in 1983. It was renovated and reopened to pedestrians in 1988.

Bayfield Walking Tour

After visiting the bridge we see an old jail just down the road. Upon entering we see a pamphlet on a table just inside the door, for a self-guided walking tour of Bayfield. We now have an interesting way to fill the next few hours.

It’s now time to head back to the dock to hopefully catch the catamaran for our cruise around the Islands.

Grand Tour Cruise

Shortly after arriving at the dock we see the ship coming back from the earlier tour.

And a Park Ranger begins telling us about the history of the island and what we’ll be seeing as we cruise 55 miles around the Apostle Islands for the next few hours. So, it appears the ship is in good working order and this cruise will go as planned.

They begin boarding us shortly after the Ranger finishes her speech, and we head up top for the open air seats to hopefully get the best views. It’ll be a little chilly; but we’re prepared with three layers each.

As we leave the dock the Captain begins his narration; which continues throughout the cruise. We see all 21 islands (some from a distance) and the highlights are:

Hermit Island Brownstone Quarries

Michigan Island Lighthouse

Bald Eagles

Manitou Island Fish Camp

Sea Caves at Devil’s Island

Devil’s Island Lighthouse

Raspberry Island Lighthouse

What an incredible day! What could have been a bummer turned into a blessing. We got to see all five eagles and the sea caves in the late afternoon light.

Siskiwit Falls

Upon waking after another great nights sleep, we check the weather and it’s a perfect day for hiking. So, we head to the west side of Bayfield Peninsula to begin with the Siskiwit Falls trail along the Siskiwit River. There are several small falls along the trails on either side of this river.

Cornucopia

Next, we head to the city of Cornucopia. We are very surprised by how small this community is and we don’t stay here very long because there’s an oppressive weight that seems to be hanging over this town making both of us uncomfortable.

There’s nothing wrong with the town and we find out later that it’s actually the favorite beach of one of our camp neighbors. So, it was just a feeling we had at the time.

Meyers Beach – Sea Caves TH

We’re now off to the main even of the day; which is the Sea Caves trail at Meyers beach.

Unexpected Fees

As we arrive at the trailhead we are met with a $5 charge for parking that is not covered by our National Park Pass. We’ve heard of these areas; but this is the first time we have encountered one. So we pay our fee, head down the trail and quickly realize why the extra charge was assessed… the trail is boardwalk for about the first mile.

As we come to the end of the boardwalk the trail becomes more of what we expect for the area and we continue through the forest toward the shoreline.

We know we’re getting close because we can see more and more blue through the trees and we can hear the water booming in what we expect are the sea caves the trail is known for.

Sea Caves

The first few overlooks provide views of tree laden sandstone cliffs, small sea caves, and large crevasses that have been carved into the sandstone cliffs over time.

Slot Canyon

Further down the trail we come to a slot canyon that has been cut into the hillside. You can see all the way to the water and the sound coming up through the narrow canyon walls is incredible. We can only imagine the volume on a windy day when the lake is really rough.

Once we reach the other side of the slot canyon, we find an arch cut into the wall where we were just standing.

As we look back toward the cliffs, we see the lakeside opening of the canyon.

More incredible views

Progressing further down the trail we find more incredible views.

A Daring Captain

Further down the trail we come across a large cave where we see a private boat turning around very close to the cliff face. This behavior is not what we would expect to see especially in choppy water, so we decide to watch for a few minutes and to our utter surprise the captain backs the boat into the cave.

Wow, that captain is either really good, nuts, or a little of both.

The Bowl

Still shaking our heads over the unexpected show we head to “The Bowl”; which is also our turn around point.

Little Sand Bay

After that incredible hike, we head up to Little Sand Bay to the summer visitor center and the Hokenson Fishery exhibit located there.

We end the day with a drive around the top of the Bayfield Peninsula and a pizza from the Manypenny Bistro in Bayfield. It’s delicious!

Madeline Island

Ferry

Today we take the bikes on the ferry to Madeline Island; which is the only island in the Apostle chain that is not part of the National Park. The ride over is smooth and we enjoy chatting with others also planning to explore via bicycle for the day.

Grants Point

Once we reach the dock we head south to Grants Point. After passing the local marina, golf course, and tennis courts we’re cycling down gravel roads surrounded by forest until we hit the beach at the Point and get our first good look at Long Island. Much to our delight there is a lighthouse directly across from the beach.

There are a few families on the beach enjoying the water and a few tourists like us walking along the beach out to the Point. It’s a beautiful walk along a very remote beach and the views of Long Island as well as back to the mainland are wonderful.

Chebomnicon Bay

Next, we head six miles up to Big Bay State Park. The ride up is very peaceful and as we get to about mile four, the road turns and Chebomnicon Bay is laid out in all it’s glory. A little further down we also find wildflowers all along the bayside and a small lake on the opposite side.

Big Bay State Park

As we enter Big Bay State Park we head to Big Bay Point and the 1.5 mile loop trial found there. The trailhead parking lot is full, so it’s definitely a popular place. We lock up the bikes and set out on the trail.

We begin to see blue skies through the trees, so we know we’re getting close. As we approach we can also hear laughter and the sound of people impacting the water and then suddenly there it is… The beautiful bay next to Big Bay Point where there are several people jumping into the crystal clear water below.

As we head further down the trail we see several areas with colored sandstone rock, interesting rock formations, sea caves, and a few arches at the water line.

Next we head out of Big Bay and back to town via the northwestern side if the island. As we reach town we come to some of the older buildings.

Around the corner is the museum; which has the original museum within a modern museum.

It’s been a very full day, so we hop the ferry back to the mainland and take a few last pictures on our way.

The Apostle Islands have been a delightful surprise. We’ve seen some incredible sights, met some really nice people, and experienced a variety of activities all in a very small geographic area.

Next stop… St. Croix National Scenic Riverway.