Zion Canyon National Park

Located in Southwestern Utah, this iconic national park stands proudly at the junction of the Great Basin, the Mojave Desert, and the Colorado Plateau. The main (and most visited) section of the park is located along the Virgin River and is distinguished by Zion Canyon’s steep red cliff walls. It’s this section well explore for the next few days.

Cedar City Lighthouse

On the way from Great Basin NP to Zion NP we unexpectedly encounter a lighthouse 450 miles from the nearest coast. It’s not even on a body of water. So, of course we had to look up the story behind it.

Built in 2000, this 88 foot lighthouse was built by a developer for two reasons: first, to be an icon for the Providence Center development; and second, it was built in preparation for a big earthquake that may drop California into the ocean. Which would make this lighthouse, the only lighthouse standing on the ‘new’ Pacific Coast of the United States.

Watchman Campground

Reaching Zion, we check into the Watchman Campground, relax, have dinner, and then walk family up to the visitors center to catch the shuttle back to their hotel in Springdale. Along the way we see several mule deer foraging in the grass around the campground.

After firming up plans for the morning and saying goodnight to family, we proceed on to the gift shop to get our National Park passport stamp before heading back to camp. As we get close to camp, we catch the last rays of the sun on Watchman Peak and decide to go down to the “beach”; which turns out to be a sandy area along the Virgin River.

On our evening walks around camp throughout the week, we catch sight of a skeleton sitting in a lounge chair. And the next day, we see it’s in a different position. It became a nightly ritual to walk by, see if it was still there, and see how it is staged for the day.

Emerald Pools Loop

Thanks to some rain shortly after arriving in Zion yesterday, it makes doing the Emerald Pools Trail an easy choice for our first hike. The pools should be full, and the falls running, which is an unusual sight this time of year.

To avoid the crowds and the heat later in the day (over 100F), we leave camp while it’s still dark. And as we’re walking toward the visitors center, we catch the sunrise on the canyon’s western walls.

After boarding the bus at the Visitor’s Center we ride it up to stop #6 – The Grotto. Once here, we follow the trail across the Virgin River before beginning the trek up the Kayenta Trail.

The sun is just reaching the western walls in this section of the canyon. And it’s highlighting the vast array of colors found in the rock. It’s also showcasing how the view varies depending on the light.

We proceed up the trail toward Upper Emerald Pool and come across an unnamed pool on the way. We are told by multiple people that this is Middle Emerald Pool; but per our detailed map, the middle pool is actually further up the trail. This may be just water leftover from yesterday’s rain.

Unnamed Emerald Pool

Upper Emerald Pools

Shortly after leaving the unnamed pool, we encounter the trail junction for the middle and upper pools. We head up to the Upper Emerald Pool first. The trail is steep and rocky; but well worth the effort. The light is perfect for mirror image reflections in the pool, as well as incredible highlights on the steep walls surrounding the pool.

Middle Emerald Pools

Next, we head back down the hill and then take the fork to the Middle Emerald Pool. Which we encounter very quickly.

We continue down the Middle Emerald Pools Trail toward Zion Lodge, where we pick up the Sand Beach Trail. Then head north along Heaps Canyon until it joins the Lower Emerald Pools trail.

Lower Emerald Pools

As we hoped, the waterfalls are flowing today and they’re incredible to see. We follow the trail below and behind the falls enjoying the spray as it cools us off.

Finally we go through the slot canyon to rejoin the Kayenta Trail. Then head back to The Grotto and the bus stop. Along the way we see views up and down the canyon.

Flora & Fauna

Of course, we do find some wildlife and a few flowers along the trails.

Later we learn that the locals named the white flowers the Moon Lily, because they only open at night. They are poisonous to the local animals, so they are starting to become overgrown in some areas. Still, they are pretty to see early in the day.

Human History Museum

After lunch we decide to take a leisurely walk up the Pa’rus Trail to visit the Human History Museum. There we take in the displays and watch the offered film while enjoying the air conditioning. Shortly before catching the bus back to the visitors center, we take in the views offered from both patios around the museum.

From the west patio:

View up canyon from the north patio:

West Rim Trail

Trail

Today we head out at the same time as yesterday and ride the bus to the same stop. However, this time we head north along the West Rim Trail toward the Angel’s Landing.

Angel’s Landing/Scout Lookout

Known as one of the most dangerous hikes in the United States, Angel’s Landing is steep and has a very narrow section that you have to traverse to get between the two peaks. With over a 1,000 foot drop on either side, there are no guardrails, which unfortunately results in multiple people falling to their deaths every year.

A permit is required to access the trail and it’s done based on a lottery system. We do not have a permit, so we only go to Scout Lookout and watch others attempt the trail. Some complete the trail; but the majority of the people we see turned around before or shortly after beginning the narrow section. The shaking limbs and stark fear on their faces doesn’t make the trail look that appealing.

As we try to head back down the West Rim Trail, we are notified by a Ranger that the trail is closed due to a loose rock on Angel’s Landing. It’s the only trail down, so we are stuck at the top waiting for the park service to topple the loose rock into the canyon below. After the rock is removed, we then have to wait to make sure no more rocks were knocked loose along the way.

When the rock hits the canyon, it makes quite the boom. And we do hear a couple of smaller booms shortly thereafter, indicating that a few rocks were indeed knocked loose on the way down.

Springdale, UT

After the hike this morning, we decide to take it easy in the afternoon. So, after lunch and a little relaxation around camp, we hop the bus into Sprindale to treat ourselves to an ice cream.

It’s an interesting little town with canyon views on both sides. And there are free shuttles running throughout the day, the entire length of town, beginning at the park entrance.

We choose the highly recommended Bumbleberry Gift Shop & Bakery for our ice cream and we’re glad we did. They have many flavors to choose from, including some interesting local flavors. The service is great, the people friendly, and the prices aren’t too bad.

Later in the week we come back to town for dinner at Jack’s Sports Grill. The food is fantastic, the music is very enjoyable, and the servers are friendly.

Riverside Walk

This morning, we hop the park bus all the way to it’s last stop at the Temple of Sinawava. We’ll do the Riverside Walk leading to “The Narrows”; which is one of the park’s most famous hikes, and where most of our fellow passengers are heading.

Trail

The Riverside Walk trail is concrete and ADA accessible, which is fantastic because following the river through the steep canyon walls is something everyone should be able to experience.

Virgin River

Along the way the Virgin River offers rapids, small falls, whirlpools, and incredible views up and down the valley.

Hanging Gardens

Along the walls of the canyon we are treated to views of varied hanging gardens. These unique gardens are formed as water from natural springs seeps out of the Navajo sandstone. It pools in places before spilling down the sides of the cliffs through joints and cracks, thereby creating a unique environment for plants to grow.

The Narrows

The Narrows is a strenuous out and back hike through 60 degree water that currently reaches waist or chest high in some places. Despite the draw of the hike, we decide not to participate at this time. Maybe on a future trip when it’s warmer and the water level is lower.

California Condor

On the way back to camp, we hop off the bus at stop #8-Big Bend to see Angel’s Landing from below; and end up seeing a California Condor perched on a ledge. It’s too far away to get a really good picture; but we do get to see it clearly through a scope one of the park rangers has set up.

It’s here we learn that there are less than 600 California Condors left in the world.

Grotto Trail

Next, we exit the bus at stop #6-The Grotto, to meander down the short trail paralleling the roadway between The Grotto to Zion Lodge (Stop #5).

Court of the Patriarchs

Our last stop along the scenic drive is stop #4-Court of the Patriarchs, where we climb a short trail up to view these towering figures named for the Old Testament as well as a few others.

Watchman Trail

After lunch we head up the Watchman Trail, which can be accessed from just north of the visitors center. It’s very steep and exceedingly hot; but we take plenty of breaks in the shade along the way.

Watchman Overlook

Once we reach the pinnacle of this trail at the Watchman Overlook, we can easily see why this is such a popular spot at sunset. The views up the canyon and down into the valley over Springdale are stunning.

Biking the Scenic Drive

Today we take a relaxing bike ride all the way to the end of the scenic drive and back. This gives us the opportunity to stop at all the spots we’ve seen through the bus windows over the last few days.

Pa’rus Trail & Scenic Drive

Virgin River

Canyon Rim & Rock Formations

Zion Lodge

We stop for lunch at Zion Lodge and spend a pleasant hour chatting with a couple from North Carolina.

Menu Falls

Located about half way between bus stops #8 & #9 we find a little sign for Menu Falls. So, we park the bikes and head up a very short trail to some wooden steps leading up to a platform, where the falls are on full display. It’s a small fall at only 10 feet; but the life around it is a sight to behold.

Lower Pine Creek Waterfall

On our final day in the park we again head out on the bikes. But this time we head toward the east entrance, stopping before the road begins to climb up to the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. We park the bikes at the Lower Pine Creek Waterfall trailhead, spend a little while looking around at the incredible views, and then head down the path on foot.

Trail views

The beginning of trail is easy; but it quickly turns into a rock scramble to get back to the waterfall. This trail is definitely not for the faint of heart; but it is well worth the effort.

Waterfall

This 15 foot waterfall has a small pond and sandy beach at the base; which is a popular place for families to relax and cool off during the hot summer months.

Wildlife

There’s also an opportunity to find some wildlife hanging around this area.

This section of the park is fantastic! And, being able to do it from the campground, where we could either walk or ride everywhere, made it a relaxing and enjoyable experience.

Next stop… Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument