Crater Lake National Park

Established in 1902, Crater Lake National Park was formed to protect the deepest lake in the United States. The caldera was created 7,700 years ago after a 12k foot (3.7k meter) volcano erupted and collapsed in on itself. It then gradually filled with water via rain and snow melt to form Crater Lake which is 1,943 feet (592 meters) deep and 6 miles (10km) wide. The water level varies by about 6ft each year; but so far scientists have been unable to determine where the water goes. And from what we learned, as long as the lake continues to balance itself each year they’ve stopped trying to figure out this phenomenon.

Mazama Campground

Shortly after driving though the southern entrance of the park we reach Mazama Village; which has the only developed campground in the park. The campground is large and the site we’re assigned is enormous and perfect for both solar and Starlink. It’s very smoky from the nearby Middle Fork fire; but we’re keeping our fingers crossed that the wind forecast holds true, allowing us to have a couple of good days while we’re here.

Rim Village

After a great nights sleep we hop on the bikes and head up to Rim Village. Our objective is to get our first look at Crater Lake, and go to the Visitor Center to find out where the Dark Sky presentation will be held the following night. Which coincidentally is the height of the Perseid Meteor Shower.

About half way up, the wind shifts; and as the smoke gets thicker, it’s clear that being on the bikes was not one of our best decisions.

First Look

Our first view of the lake is definitely obscured by smoke; but we’re still struck by how blue the water is. And we’ll have another opportunity for a clear view tomorrow.

Visitor Center

Next we go to the Rim Visitor Center to poke around, and obtain the information that we’re seeking.

Sinnott Overlook

Just outside the Visitor Center is Sinnott Overlook. Where a short; steep path leads down to an observation platform that gives a panoramic view of the lake. There are also a number of information boards telling us about the lake, how it was formed, and some of the more interesting formations found along the caldera.

The smoke is getting pretty thick, so it’s time to head back toward camp.

Godfrey Glen Trail

On the way we stop at the Godfrey Glen Trail to see Duwee Falls. It’s still smoky; but nothing like it was up at the lake.

The views from the trail are incredible; but the waterfall is disappointing. It’s only visible from one small overlook on the trail and even then, only with a zoom lens. I actually backtracked on the trail to get a picture, because we kept thinking there would be a better view of it up ahead.

East Rim Drive Scenic Overlooks

After a wonderful nights sleep we awake to clear skies and clean air. Yeah, the forecast was correct. So, we pack lunch and head out to explore what’s on offer along the East Rim Drive.

Plaikni Falls Trail

Our first hike of the day is Plaikni Falls; which the forest service personnel at the beginning of the trail promise us won’t be disappointing. So, we head down the trail… and discover they are absolutely correct. As we near the end of the trail, we begin to see the small lower tier of the waterfall; but once we round the bend the middle and upper tiers are on full display. And finally, at the end of the trail, we get an up close view of the upper tier.

The main fall is 20 feet; but the overall length is 40 feet.

Phantom Ship Overlook

Our next stop is the Phantom Ship Overlook. This is unfortunately as far as we can go on the East Rim at this time due to road construction. We later learn that this is year 1 of a 5 year project to repair and shore up 19 miles of the east rim that was built in the 1930’s.

Sun Notch Trail

Our next stop is the Sun Notch Trail. Shortly after beginning, we see a deer munching on some grass along the trail. So, we slow to let it become aware of us without scaring it away. We must have done a pretty good job; because it actually stayed just ahead of us all the way up the trail. Once we reach the first overlook, it stops to let me get a good picture before meandering away into the woods.

Vidae Falls

Our last stop on East Rim Drive is Vidae Falls. This waterfall can easily be seen from a pullout along East Rim Drive and it consists of three tiers with the largest having a 50 foot drop. The overall height of the waterfall is 115 feet.

This is our last planned stop for the day; but it’s so beautiful and clear, we decide to take advantage of it and to head to the West Rim Drive.

Discovery Point

Discovery Point is the first pullout along the West Rim Drive and it’s a view that should not be missed.

Watchman Peak

Our next stop is the Watchman Peak Trail; which leads up to a fire tower perched at the top. The trail is a 1.6 mile round trip with 420 feet of elevation gain. And it’s well worth the effort to be able to get panoramic views of the lake and the surrounding areas. This also gives us our first really good view of the fire creating all the smoke, and causing the air quality issues.

There are several Rangers at the top of the lookout tower doing reconnaissance on the fire to the NW. And they’re so focused that direction, that when I mention within their hearing that I see a plume of smoke to the east side of the lake, they immediately turn around to look. One then gets on the radio to see if it’s been reported, discover it hasn’t, and thanks us for pointing it out.

Watchman Overlook

Once we’re down the trail, we stop at the Watchman Overlook to get a view of Wizard Island where we’ll be exploring tomorrow.

What a incredible day! The clear skies provided incredible views. And it was so nice to be able to get out and hike in clean air.

Now it’s time to head back to camp for some dinner and relaxation before coming back to the Rim for tonight’s Dark Sky Presentation. Hopefully we’ll see some of the Perseid Meteor Shower.

Dark Sky Presentation

The Ranger narrated Dark Sky Presentation is very informative and after it’s complete, we’re all led to the rim to view the night sky. The Ranger there uses a laser pointer to show us several constellations and while he’s doing that we see several meteors streaking across the night sky. Having never seen a meteor shower, it’s an incredible sight.

It’s hard to see; but the picture below is looking northwest across Crater Lake with several stars and a few clouds in the night sky. The faint light we can see is a result of the fire only a few miles away.

Cleetwood Cove Trail

After a short night we awake to another day of clear skies and clean air. We’re so thankful, as today is our scheduled boat tour. But, in order to get to the boat we have to first traverse the Cleetwood Cover Trail. The way down is steep; but provides good views and some wildlife.

A Day on the Lake

We’re off on our 5 hour tour; which includes a two hour tour around the caldera plus three hours on Wizard Island. There are two trails on Wizard Island and we’ve been warned a few times to pick one, as it’s unusual that visitors can accomplish both within the three hours allotted for visiting the island.

Wizard Island

It is believed that Wizard Island was formed during a volcanic eruption about 400 years after the original caldera was formed. So, essentially it is a volcano within a volcano.

Witches Cauldron

Once the boat drops us off, we immediately head up the cone to the top to the Witches Cauldron. Which is the vent or bowl shaped formation at the top of the cone island.

The hike to get here is no joke. The path is well maintained; but has a steady, uphill ascent of 776 feet in 1.2 miles. We’re told the views are well worth the effort.

Once we reach the top, there is a trail around the rim that offers the incredible views we were promised of both the lake and the inside rim of the caldera.

Views From the Top

After taking in all the sights offered at the top, we head back down the trail to find a spot out of the wind for lunch. We reach the bottom much quicker than anticipated, and as we come upon the junction point where the two trails meet, we realize we have time to head at least part way down the other trail.

Fumarole Bay Trail

The trail is relatively flat in elevation and only 0.4 miles; but it’s very slow going. The trail surface is formed by very uneven, sharp, and wobbly lava rocks making it very easy to turn an ankle or damage a knee. Taking it slow, we do manage to get to the emerald waters of Fumarole Bay and each find a rock to sit and enjoy our lunch. While there a family joins us to brave the very cold waters for a swim. Their reactions to the cold water are hilarious to watch and provide ample entertainment while we consume our meal.

Crater Lake Boat Tour

Narrated by a park ranger the two hour tour is educational and entertaining. Pictures of the highlights (except Wizard Island; which was stop 3) are below. Some of the pics are not the best lighting; but please take into account that they were taken from a moving boat on very choppy water.

Llao Rock

Devil’s Backbone

Snow at Base of Watchman Overlook

Waterfalls

Little Glacier

Phantom Ship

Dutton Cliff

Pumice Castle

The Old Man in the Wall

The Pinnacles

Other Rim Views

Once back at the dock we now have to head back up the Cleetwood Cove trail. Our second of the day that is straight up 730 feet in 1 mile. They warn you about this trail before booking any of the boat excursions as there’s no other way to get to the dock. We pass several people who are really struggling to get to the top. We also stop a few times to catch our breath, realizing that our lungs have been affected by breathing in smoke on and off for the past few weeks.

Middle Fork Fire

While in the park, the Middle Fork fire grew from 4k to 5k acres and is only 4 miles NW of Crater Lake. It’s easily seen from West Rim Drive; and depending on the wind, makes the air quality around the lake very hazardous to be outdoors. We were very lucky that the wind forecast held true, and two of our four days here were clear. Allowing us to see and do everything we wanted to while in the park.

Next stop… Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument.