Redwoods National and State Parks

In 1918 paleontologists, wanting to save and preserve the redwoods campaigned to protect these living links to our history. From these efforts, three California State Parks were born: Prairie Creek (1923), Del Norte (1925), and Jedediah Smith (1929). Then in 1968, these parks were encircled by Redwood National Park; which was then expanded in 1978. Today, the national and state parks are jointly managed to make sure all parts of the park are managed the same way.

These magnificent trees; which grow from seeds the size of a tomato seed can live over 2,000 years, weigh over 500 tons, and grow to nearly 380 ft. They are recognized as irreplaceable treasures and the park has been further designated as a World Heritage Site and became part of the California Coast Rangers Biosphere Reserve. This ensures these living legends will survive for generations to come.

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

Located just east of Crescent City this park is the home of some of the most iconic areas of Redwoods NP.

Howland Hill Road

At the southern end of the park is the famous Howland Hill Road where parts of “Return of the Jedi” was filmed. The trees are so large that the road is single lane and has to weave it’s way between the giant redwoods. During parts of it we feel like we’re going to drive straight into a tree trunk as wide as the truck, only to see the road turn at the last minute. It’s only at the trailheads, where the road widens enough to allow parking along the road.

It’s very slow going; but the drive is completely worth it as it leads you back to areas like, Boy Scout Tree, Stout Grove, and…

Grove of the Titans Trail

This short 1.7 mile out-and-back trail begins with a smooth path of dirt; but as we get closer to the trees it turns into a unique raised metal platform. Speaking with the Rangers, they moved to this format to help preserve the forest floor and cut down on maintenance.

Flora & Fauna (other than trees)

Grove of the Titans

We finally reach the end of the trail and the “Grove of the Titans.” The trees here are over 2,000 years old and enormous. You can easily see how much they dwarf adult humans.

Simpson-Reed Grove

At the northern end of the park located along Walker Road is the Simpson-Reed Grove. This ancient forest contains trees over 1,000 years old; which form a towering rain-forest canopy over much smaller hemlock trees, huckleberries, and ferns. It also provides enough damp to support a variety of amphibians and fungi.

There are two recommended trails here. The Leiffer & Ellsworth Loops and the Simpson-Reed Loop.

Leiffer & Ellsworth Loops

We begin with the Leiffer & Ellsworth Loops where we encounter several Banana slugs along the trail.

Simpson-Reed Loop

Our last trail in this part of the park is the Simpson-Reed Loop; which is very easy to access from the main road and so well maintained that we encounter a runner doing loops around this 1 mile trail.

Klamath River Overlook

Our next stop south in this park is the Klamath River Overlook, where it’s so foggy we can’t see anything from the overlook other than the flowering blackberry bushes lining the trail. We actually have to stop along the road (below the fog) on the way down, to see the where Klamath River meets the Pacific Ocean.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park

This section of the park contains some of the most beautiful and most visited sections of the the Redwoods.

We were lucky enough to book a campsite here for 10 days. The intent was to explore the park in depth and use the bikes as much as possible. But, it’s even more fortunate now as we’re still recovering from being sick. So, we can take it easy, get completely healthy and still have enough time to do everything we wanted to while here.

Elk Prairie Campground

The majority of the campground in under the trees you can see at the back of the photo below; but we’re right on the edge of Elk Prairie with the perfect spot for solar and Starlink. The campsites are small and very close together; but the easy access to the best parts of the park make it so worth it.

Elk Prairie

During our time here we see Elk on a few different days as well as a few deer at sunset one evening.

Hiking to Big Tree

Today we set out on foot to hike to “Big Tree” from camp via the Karl Kapp, Cathedral Trees, Elk Prairie, and Davidson Trails. This 4.75 mile trail goes up ~1,500 feet and is one of the only ways to get to the back side of Elk Prairie.

Big Tree

Big Tree, the main attraction on this trail and a stop on the Newton B. Drury Scenic Drive, is 286 feet high, 23.7 feet in diameter, 74.5 feet in circumference, and is estimated to be 1500 years old.

Nature Trail

We begin this ~1 mile trail at Campfire Center between the campground and the visitors center. It’s an interpretive trail that crosses Prairie Creek, goes up into the redwoods, and then winds back down behind the Visitor Center before following the creek back to Campfire Center. We opt to continue the trail into the main campground and follow the campground loop back to our campsite.

Bald Hills Road Scenic Drive

This 34 mile out & back, mostly paved, two-lane road, is steep and narrow in sections; but it takes us through old-growth trees before ascending up above the trees to several open prairies. And on the way back we get an incredible surprise; which will be revealed below.

Lady Bird Johnson Grove

Our first stop on the drive is Ladybird Johnson Grove. In 1969 President Richard Nixon dedicated this grove to Lady Bird Johnson in recognition her devoted service to preserving and making America’s natural beauty accessible to all. This grove is easy to get to, the trail itself is smooth and easy to traverse; and if you only have a short time in the park, it’s a good spot to visit. However, compared to what we’ve already seen, this grove was so underwhelming we only took two pictures along this 1.4 mile trail.

Redwood Creek Overlook

Our next stop is a nice spot with picnic tables and information boards identifying the different mountain peaks, forests (logged, old-growth, etc), and creeks that can be seen from here.

Donalson Prairie

Continuing up the drive we reach the point where the Donalson Prairie Trail begins. This trail meanders across meadows, through woodlands, and past the historic Donalson Barn before descending into an old-growth redwoods forest in a deep gorge along Emerald Creek. The barn (sheep shed) is made from hand-hewn redwood timbers and is the remnants from a large sheep-herding ranch that operated in this area for over a century.

Unfortunately, the trail is off limits during our time here, so we have to settle for a view of the landscape from the top.

Lyons Ranch Trailhead

At the top of the drive is Lyons Ranch Trailhead. It’s here we learn that these incredible prairies were created by the Chulula, Hupa, and Yurok Indians.

They intentionally set fires to the oak woodlands to enhance the production of their food staples, which consisted of acorns, berries, and grasses. They also used the grasses for baskets, netting, and string. It’s these prairies where the early settlers established their sheep ranches.

The Surprise

On the way back down the drive, it finally happens! We see a bear in the wild.

A small bear runs across the road in front of us. It’s so quick that the only way we are able to capture it is on the dashcam, so please excuse the poor quality of the video below. It was also larger and closer than the video portrays.

Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway

This 10 mile (one-way) scenic drive is advertised as a “not to be missed alternative to US 101 passing through the heart of the old-growth redwood forest”. As planned, we do it on the bikes to really experience this incredible wonder.

There’s so much to see and experience on this drive that I can’t stop looking up and around at the natural wonder that surrounds us. So much so, I am told I look like a bobblehead going down the road.

Ah Pah Interpretive Trail

Toward the end of the drive we stop to hike the Ah Pah Interpretive Trail. This short trail leads to the Merriman Grove and provides a great way to stretch our legs before heading back to the camper.

Cal Barrel Road

On the way back to camp we decide we haven’t had enough and head up Cal Barrel Road to ride through additional old growth redwoods. It’s only an additional 3.5 miles; but what we don’t realize is that it’s straight uphill. Our legs are definitely burning as we reach the top.

Corkscrew Tree

Once we’re back at camp we realize we missed stopping at Corkscrew Tree along the scenic drive, so we ride the bikes back on a different day.

This is a prime example of a cathedral ring, or a ring of coastal redwoods where the trunks of a few trees have become twisted together. It’s an amazing sight to see, and while we were there we enjoyed watching kids and adults alike climbing through it.

Bike ride to Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon

Today we head out on the bikes to visit Gold Bluffs Beach and the famous Fern Canyon. Access to Fern Canyon by car is limited and requires a special pass; but we discovered during our research that by staying at the Elk Prairie Campground we do not have to obtain a pass. By doing it on the bikes we don’t need a pass either. The only other way to get there without a pass, is by hiking the 10.4 mile (out & back) James Irvine Trail from the Visitors Center.

We begin by heading south on the Davidson Trail (easy), then turn west on the Streelow Creek Trail (medium) through the forest, until it dead-ends into Davidson Road (easy). The road then takes us all the way to Gold Bluffs and Fern Canyon.

Gold Bluffs Beach

Once we reach Gold Bluffs Beach we stop to take a walk. Here we meet a Ranger and his volunteer completing a bird count. Then we hop on the bikes and head further up the road where we stop at the campground for lunch.

After lunch we continue on to Fern Canyon, traversing several water crossings along the way. Once at the trailhead, we lock up the bikes and then head up the trail where we follow the boardwalk along a canyon completely lined with ferns.

Fern Canyon

Millions of years ago, the retreating sea carved these sheer canyon walls, creating a home for ancient species of ferns. These ferns can date their ancestry back 325 million years.

Entering the canyon we’re surprised by how cool and moist it is.

Along the way we see a small waterfall…

…a couple of walls of seeping water, and some unexpected wildlife.

Once we complete the fern canyon trail loop, we head out to the beach for a look back to where we were just exploring.

Trillium Falls

On the way home, we decide to follow Davidson Road all the way down to the Trillium Falls Trailhead. Here we have a rare sighting of a bat in the sunlight before taking the 2.5 mile loop trail. The trail leads past the waterfall, through old-growth redwoods, past the massive “Chimney trees”, crossing an old logging road, until heading north along the edge of Prairie Creek, and finally back to the Elk Prairie Meadow.

Elk Meadow

On our final day in the area we stop at Elk Meadow one last time and are rewarded with a herd of females (Cows) and young (calves) relaxing in the grass. All the other Elk we’ve seen in Elk Prairie have been bulls.

We’ve done our best to show the majesty of these ancient trees, and to express the wonder you get when standing amid a grove. But, it’s really something that can only be experienced, and I hope you have the opportunity to do so.

Next stop… Oregon Caves NM & Preserve