Oregon’s Southern Coast (Part 1)

On this leg of our trip we finally cross into the Southern Coast of Oregon. Our journey begins in Winchester Bay and as we head further down the coast we explore lighthouses, waterfalls, and find an incredible pizza place just outside of Old Town Bandon.

Winchester Bay, OR

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

One of the best whale watching sites along the coast, this state park offers access to the Umpqua River Light Station and overlooks another section of the Oregon Dunes NRA.

Umpqua River Light Station

The Umpqua River Light Station is the site of the first lighthouse on the Oregon Coast. Built near the mouth of the river in 1857 it succumbed to flood and erosion in 1864 and was replaced in 1894 by the one that stands here today. The lighthouse keepers quarters are now a museum and the boathouse is a gift shop, cafe & bakery.

Umpqua River Whale Watching Center

This is an ideal spot to see grey whales come close to shore near the mouth of the Umpqua River. It’s also the site of what’s known as “The Triangle”. Created in 1979 when the training jetty was extended to the tip of the south jetty, it’s now an ideal spot for aquiculture (aqua farming), spearfishing, and canoeing.

Coos Bay, OR

Golden & Silver Falls State Natural Area

Today we decide to briefly leave the coast and head inland to view a couple of Oregon’s top waterfalls at the Golden & Silver Falls State Nature Area. The drive in is narrow, windy, and only one lane for several miles; but he destination is well worth the effort to get there.

The park offers two very short trails to spectacular falls.

Silver Falls

Cascading 259 feet down the hillside, this fall is a site to behold. The path goes all the way to the top allowing you to actually get into the fall should you desire to. We opted to stay dry and enjoy watching others discover just how cold this water is.

Golden Falls

Falling 254 feet this fall doesn’t have the same dramatic effect as Silver Falls; but it’s still stunning.

Cape Arago Lighthouse Viewpoint

When we arrive here, it’s completely fogged in. We meet a family coming up the trail who tell us that they weren’t able to see anything. We decide to head down the trail anyway and hope the fog lifts just enough for us to see the lighthouse.

Lighthouse

As we arrive at the overlook, we meet a couple eating lunch and after exchanging pleasantries discover they’ve been there for almost an hour waiting for the fog to lift. We spend the next 20 minutes or so swapping recommendations with them (they’re doing the coast in the opposite direction), and the fog begins to dissipate giving us all the view we were hoping for.

Standing 100 feet above the ocean on an islet near Gregory Point, this 44 foot high tower was first illuminated in 1934. It is technically the newest lighthouse (constructed for that purpose) on the coast. Earlier structures were built on this same site in 1866 and 1908; but neither could survive the weather and erosion.

Bandon, OR

Bandon Marsh NWR

Our morning begins with a visit to the Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. This marsh floods twice daily with the tide; but we neglected to check the tide table before coming and arrive just before low tide. Consequently, we do not see a lot of wildlife; but the landscape is interesting and we do spot a pair of Tree Swallows on our way out.

Bullards Beach

Our next stop is Bullards Beach State Park to see the beach and the Coquille River Lighthouse.

Coquille River

Lighthouse

Beginning service in 1896 , this 47 foot tower was affixed with a fourth-order Fresnel lens. It safely guided boats across the shallows at the mouth of the Coquille River until 1939 when it was replaced by an automated light on the south jetty. In 1978 the Oregon State Parks, jointly with The Army Corps of Engineers restored the lighthouse. Today, the tower is off limits because the stairs are unsafe. But, the attached building can be toured and contains a gift shop as well as information regarding the history of the lighthouse and surrounding area.

North & South Jetties

Just west of the lighthouse are the Coquille River Jetties; which were constructed between 1887 – 1905 by the US Army Corps of Engineers to stabilize the mouth of the river.

Bullards Bridge spanning the Coquille River

Completed in 1954, this is one of two vertical-lift bridges on the Oregon Coast Highway.

Old Town Bandon

After spending the morning traipsing through nature, we head into Old Town Bandon to see what the local fare has to offer.

We end up just north of Old Town at “Pastries & Pizza.” The atmosphere is clean and very friendly with one of the owners and several of the staff yelling out welcomes (many by name) to everyone who comes through the door. It’s very reminiscent of the 80’s sitcom “Cheers”. The food was all handmade, absolutely incredible, and very reasonably priced. We couldn’t have asked for a better experience.

South Jetty to Coquille Point

After eating way to much we head out for a walk back through Old Town to South Jetty where we walk along the beach and up on a nature path to Coquille Point.

Coquille Point

Coquille Point is a headland viewpoint overlooking tide pools, sea caves, beaches and various rock formations. Thanks to it’s National Wildlife Refuge status, it is also home to thousands of marine mammals and sea birds.

Bandon Beach

Looking south from Coquille Point, we see Bandon Beach; with a massive rock formation just offshore containing a few arches and sea caves. If we look carefully, we can also just see Tupper Creek emptying into the Pacific Ocean about half way down the beach.

We finish our loop walk by heading back into town, through City Park and finally back to Old Town to pick up the truck and head south.

Devils Kitchen & another Haystack Rock

Our last stop of the day is at Bandon State Park to get a look at Devil’s Kitchen and yet another Haystack Rock (3rd on the coast). Although, to me this one looks more like a large square hay bale than a haystack.

Next stop… Oregon’s Southern Coast (Part 2)