Death Valley National Park

The second act… After an unexpected cold turn in the weather we find ourselves in Death Valley National Park one year and a few weeks after our last visit. The goal is to see Lake Manly and visit the sights we missed the previous year due to the 100 year storms that swept through the area in August & September 2022.

Pahrump, NV

On the way to Death Valley we stop briefly in Pahrump, NV to ride out a wind storm. We shelter on private property (using one of the services we subscribe to) with a view of the snow capped Spring Mountains, and are serenaded by horses, donkeys, peacocks, and coyotes throughout our visit.

Early Sunday morning we thank our host and head into Death Valley.

Seeking a Campsite

We were unable to secure a reservation; but there are several first come, first serve campgrounds in the park.

So, our intent is to arrive at our first option (Texas Springs Campground) between 9:30 & 10 as people are leaving to head back to work on Monday. Pulling up to the campground entrance we see several campers exiting and we know we have timed it well. There are several sites to choose from, so pick the best one, set up, have a quick lunch, then head out to Badwater Basin to see Lake Manly.

As we leave the campground, the ranger is putting out the “Campground Full” sign. Whew! We, definitely timed our arrival well.

Lake Manly at Badwater Basin

As we approach Badwater Basin we get our first look at this Prehistoric Lake (Lake Manly) with the snow capped Telescope Peak standing sentinel above.

After finding a place to park we walk out the path to see and feel this natural wonder. It’s surprisingly cool to the touch and very salty; which is one of the reasons it was named Badwater Basin.

Lake Manly Shoreline

At 282 Feet / 85.5 Meters Below Sea Level, Badwater Basin is normally dry with a bright white salt crust on the top. Actually almost all of the 185 mile length of this riverbed is normally dry. The Amargosa River flows underground, and is only occasionally forced to the surface. The only other way this riverbed contains water is when a flash flood hits; which is what happened in this case. This is the first time since 2005 that Lake Manly, a prehistoric lake that was in existence during the last major Ice Age (ending about 10,000 years ago) has made an appearance. And it will be gone again shortly.

A quick move

The next morning, shortly after waking up, we see the campers on the end of the next row leaving. The sites here are very close together with very little vegetation. So, having a large end site would make our stay a lot more comfortable. After verifying the site was available, and checking with the camp host for approval, we make the move.

We now only have one neighbor, a view, and some shade for our chairs in the afternoon. Definitely worth the time and effort!

Dante’s Peak

It’s a beautiful clear morning, so after breakfast, we take the drive up to Dante’s view. At about 6k feet above our campsite, it’s 20 degrees (F) cooler, requiring several layers or a heavy jacket.

Approaching the overlook we get a glimpse of Lake Manly from above and realize just how small it is.

The view is quite different from last year…

Next we walk along Dante’s ridge to get a look at the Southern section of the Amargosa River Valley below Badwater Basin. Lake Manly doesn’t extend this far, so the white in the picture is salt.

Finally, we walk part of the way up Mount Perry to get a view north along the valley and see more of the bright white salt extending along the valley floor.

Billie Mine

On the way back to camp we see the Billie Mine highlighted in front of a mountain with very unusual vertical geological lines.

Bike ride

After a quick lunch we opt for a bike ride. We head down the hill…

Furnace Creek

…through The Ranch at Furnace Creek, around Furnace Creek Campground, to the Borax Works, through Mustard Canyon…

Mustard Canyon

…and finally back to camp for dinner and to relax for the evening.

The Racetrack

This morning we decide to head north to see The Racetrack and Ubehebe Crater.

The road to the Racetrack is 20 miles of washboard dirt road; but the wildflowers and views are beautiful.

Teakettle Junction

As we get closer to the Racetrack we come across the famed Teakettle Junction…

The Racetrack

…until we finally get our first look of The Racetrack.

The Racetrack is so named because it is almost a perfect oval in shape, almost perfectly flat, with a rock formation in the middle resembling grandstands. In addition, rocks occasionally tumble from the surrounding hills and are pushed across the surface leaving tracks. It’s unknown how the rocks move on the surface; but the working theory is a thin layer of ice and the wind create this phenomena.

Ubehebe Crater

On the way back to camp, we stop to explore Ubehebe Crater and walk the rim trail.

Ubehebe Crater (volcanic in nature) is about 2,000 years old, a half-mile across, and about 500 feet deep. The explosion creating this crater spewed shattered rock over a six-square-mile area that in some places was 150 feet deep.

What a difference a cloud makes

As we’re walking up the west side, a cloud briefly blocks the sun and the difference it makes on the colors seen in the crater is incredible.

Little hebe

About a 1/3 of the way around we come across Little Hebe; which is a much smaller volcanic crater.

Willow Canyon Trail

After being in the truck a good portion of yesterday, today we opt for a hike. So, we head out to the Willow Canyon Trail. The trail begins at the Sidewinder Canyon trailhead and goes left from the parking area. The hike is approximately 4.3 miles (out and back) and has 1k ft of elevation change following Willow Canyon up into the hills. The first part of the hike is relatively boring as the canyon has been washed out a few times between Aug 2022 & Mar 2024.

There’s very little trail to follow and it’s very easy to lose it. But, you’re essentially just making your way up until it narrows and becomes a slot canyon with Willow Creek running through it.

As we follow willow creek up through the slot canyon there are several areas where the creek goes under ground and then springs back up later until we finally reach the 40 to 50 ft waterfall at the end.

Willow Canyon Waterfall

Yes there really is waterfall in Death Valley! It’s spring fed, very cold, and from what we’ve been told it runs all year round.

On the way out of the slot canyon, we get a glimpse of the snow capped mountains beautifully framed by the canyon walls.

On the road back to camp we are treated to an incredible view of the snow capped Telescope Peak.

Free lunch!

After the hike, we decide to treat ourselves for a very late lunch. Unfortunately, we arrive for the buffet a few seconds after they close the line. We explained that we were in line; but ducked out to quickly wash our hands. The manager, looks to the cashier who confirms our story, and decides to take pity on us and let us go through. She explains that it would be a one and done as they would begin tearing it down in the next five minutes. But, because they’d already closed the register, they couldn’t charge us. There were many items that were empty; but what was left, was very enjoyable.

Wonder Keane Mine

Today, we’re expecting a storm with high winds beginning this afternoon. So, we leave camp early to explore Wonder Keane Mine.

We head north toward Beatty, NV then turn down a dirt road that gradually winds it’s way 1500 ft up into the hills until reaching a parking area 1/4 mile below the Keane Wonder Mill. As we walk up the hill we look back to see an entirely new view of the valley.

Continuing up, we get our first view of the water tank, mill, and the mile long aerial tramway that makes this mine so unique.

This mill and mine is one of the best examples of a historical gold mining operation in the park. It was in operation from 1904 to 1917 and produced over $1 million in gold.

We continue to explore this area for a while…

Stamp Mill & Ruins

…before heading up the path toward the mine over a mile up the hill. This gives us incredible up close views of the tramway, the tramway system from top to bottom, and the large gorge that it traverses.

Aerial Tramway

At the half way point (where we stopped), we were also provided with an incredible panorama going from Furnace Creek to Stovepipe Wells (two of the main visitor concession areas).

After the hike we head back to camp just as the wind begins to pick up speed.

A Winter Storm Rolls Through

For the rest the day and the next we watch as the wind tears tents apart and the rain destroys many people’s plans. The wind gusts reached 43.8 mph, with sustained winds over 25 mph for a period of time. In addition, the park received 1/4 inch of rain; which is a lot for an area that on average gets about 2 inches in a year.

I’m happy to say that we stayed warm and dry throughout the storm and awoke to clear skies and calm winds for our departure.

Next stop… Lake Mead National Recreation Area (NRA).